Storage shed doors won’t close? Here are some Tips
Why won’t my shed Doors close?
I receive at least 40-50 calls per year from people who have a shed 15,20,30 or more years old which is in decent shape however the doors are sagging, won’t close properly or just plain don’t work.
Here are some simple steps to try and eliminate your door issues:
- Take a 4′ level and place in the middle of the shed floor. Make sure it is level front to back and right to left. If your storage shed is even a little bit out of level it can cause the shed doors to stick/rub. Using pressure treated, steel, concrete or composite shims re-level the shed. I suggest using a Jeep jack or Johnson bar to lift the shed one corner at a time. Depending on the size of the building you may be able to use a simple steel bar to lift the corners high enough to place the shims underneath.
- Doors are warping out at the bottom/top. This may happen for several reasons and there are a couple of ways to solve the problem.
- You can buy small turnbuckles at most hardware stores or home centers. Attach one half to the area where the door is pulling away from the shed and the other diagonally across the door towards the opposite corner. Once screwed into place start tightening the turn buckle using a wrench. Once you have it cranked nice and tight take a look and see if it took out some, most or all of the warp. If not proceed to step 2.
- Remove the doors from the storage shed. Next remove the trim from the front of the doors (if there is any) as many carpenters will nail through the siding on the front of the door into the door framing and then hide the nails with the trim. Remove the frame from the siding and replace the framing with new, straight lumber. Reattach the siding and trim (replace the trim and siding if necessary since you already have it dis-assembled). Paint the bottom of the siding as well as the bottom of the framing to prevent wicking moisture from the ground.
- Swollen doors – From time to time your shed doors may swell due to rain or humidity. Using your doors when they are swollen is not a good idea as it can damage the siding. In the case of laminated siding such as T1-11 the siding may delaminate. To correct this problem it is a good idea to increase the space between the door and the door jam/frame. When the door(s) are swollen take a permanent marker and mark the areas where the door is swollen. Make sure that if the door is modified it will still hit the stops which keep it from opening all the way in. When the door has dried remove the door(s) and using a chalk line or straight edge make a line the entire length or width of the side where the door is rubbing. I suggest ripping the door down just a small amount. As little as the width of the circular saw blade will usually solve the problem.
Most quality shed manufacturers consider swelling when constructing their doors and door openings. Warping on the other hand can not be foreseen.
Since I am on the topic of shed doors my next entry will be how to build shed doors like the pros!