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How much space do I need?

A tough question to answer because you never know how much more “stuff” you may accumulate but there is a relatively simple way to determine what size shed will fit the “stuff” you currently have.

First decide what items you are going to store in your new shed. Of these items, which will take up floor space in your new shed and which, will be leaning against or hung from the wall. Bring, drive or roll the items, which are going to be stored on the floor of the shed into your yard or onto your driveway.

Next position these items as you imagine them being positioned in your shed.

Use some string and outline the area and measure the length and the width.

Remember you will have additional space in your shed for hanging or placing items against the walls. In all cases other than sheds with low walls you will have the ability to store items overhead.

Once you have the measurements add 2 feet to either the length or width or 1 foot to each and you have a good indication of the size shed you need.

What is the best shed siding material?

Years ago sheds were available with just a few different siding types some of which were. Tin/aluminum, pine, cedar and wafer board/particle board. The shed industry has evolved over the years, as have the sidings available. Today you can find sheds with sidings ranging from rough sawn pine, cedar shake and clapboard to vinyl and Duratempâ„¢ siding.

It’s hard to say which is the best siding however here are the pros and cons of each:

rough sawn pine

Rough sawn pine commonly used for “board and baton” construction – Rough sawn pine is one of the oldest siding utilized by shed manufacturers in the northeast. It is abundant and relatively inexpensive. It is rustic in appearance and doesn’t damage easily. Unfortunately, unless kiln dried, pine will experience considerable shrinkage. In the case of board and baton construction it is not uncommon for the baton strips to warp or fall off leaving larger than acceptable gaps in the siding.

Rough sawn pine requires more maintenance than most siding types and typically needs to be repainted or stained every few years. Even with the drawbacks to rough sawn pine siding the lower price tag and rustic appearance make it a popular choice.

When buying a rough sawn pine shed be sure to ask if the pine is kiln dried. Also ask if they will replace fallen baton strips and if so for how long.

vinyl siding

Vinyl siding – Vinyl sided sheds are a great choice for the homeowner who is not fond of maintenance. It is also a good choice for those who would like to match their vinyl sided homes. Although vinyl siding is for the most part impervious to weathering and requires little maintenance it is not the right siding choice for everyone.

Unlike wooden sheds a simple mar in the siding cannot be touched up with paint. The metal wrapping is also susceptible to dents and dings.

In the event you crack a corner with your line trimmer or dent the metal with an errant baseball throw the repairs can be more costly than that of a wooden shed.

Will you incur more cost in minor repairs over the lifetime of the shed or would you spend more painting a wooden shed? Unless you host daily baseball games you would probably spend more on paint.

cedar siding

Cedar siding – Cedar has been a popular siding for years. Although most sheds are sided with red cedar some manufacturers utilize the less expensive “white cedar”.

Red Cedar is naturally rot and insect resistant. It is aesthetically pleasing and is easy to work with. Many homeowners opt for cedar to compliment their home or yard.

Red Cedar is one of the more expensive sidings. Red Cedar must be primed well before painting and in some the knots will still bleed through the paint. This makes it harder to maintain than some of the other sidings available. When choosing a Red Cedar shed be sure that it is not constructed with “cut-offs” or “shorts”. These are smallish pieces of wood which will look almost “puzzle pieced” together. Although these pieces are inexpensive and cause the shed price to be vastly lowered they also cause the shed to be substantially weaker than a shed utilizing standard lengths of wood. Sheds sided with cedar need to be fortified either by adding additional wall studs and metal straps or using a rigid piece of material between the wall studs and the siding.

Duratempâ„¢ siding

Duratempâ„¢ siding is a plywood siding with 1/8″ tempered hardboard face. Duratempâ„¢ looks natural, resists dents, checks and cracks and is 100% clear (no wood or synthetic patches). It also holds paint exceptionally well. Duratempâ„¢ tends to be less costly than Red Cedar and vinyl. In terms of maintenance and longevity Duratempâ„¢ would be the next best thing to vinyl.

Duratempâ„¢ sheds almost always come with the siding running vertically. This may be a drawback for some homeowners.

inner seal siding

Innerseal – Innerseal is a popular siding for economy or low cost sheds. Its exterior appearance is very similar to Duratempâ„¢ siding however you’ll know the difference when you step inside and see that it resembles wafer board.

Innerseal was involved in a class action lawsuit brought about due to rapid deterioration among other things.

tin or aluminum siding

Tin sheds were a staple for several years. Today many tins sheds can be seen with a tarp over the roof to keep the water out or a piece of plywood acting as a make shift door. The lowest end of the spectrum in terms of cost, tin sheds are a good choice for the homeowner or renter on a limited budget.

Unfortunately tin rusts and aluminum for the most part is no longer used.

When purchasing a tin shed be sure it is rust resistant and carries a warranty against rust.

How long can I expect my shed to last?

With the exception of tin sheds your shed should last 20+ years assuming you maintain it properly by applying paint when needed, don’t store firewood against it and keep grass and weeds from growing up against the siding.

Where should I place my shed?

Your sheds’ site can be important to the sheds longevity. Here are a few tips.

It is important to choose a site that is relatively level and is free from low hanging branches. The ground should be firm and free of leaves and other debris, which may deteriorate and become unstable. If your yard becomes very wet during the spring thaw be sure that your shed is not in an area where there may be standing water for several days. If you have an in ground sprinkler system be sure to divert sprinkler heads away from the shed. When selecting the location of your shed be sure it is convenient to access. Although you may not want it next to your house you may want it on the same side of the yard as the garage or near the pool etc.

How should I prepare my site?

A common misconception is that a shed should be elevated on cinder blocks to help prevent rot and insect damage. This may have been the case 30 years ago however since the introduction of pressure treated lumber and today’s more durable sidings this is no longer necessary.

Crushed Stone

A crushed stone base, 4-6″ deep, is one of the best ways to prepare your site. Be sure and use “crushed” stone as opposed to “pea” stone. 1/2″ is a good diameter and is relatively inexpensive.

When preparing the site with crushed stone be sure and extend the size of your base 2′ longer and wider than the actual size of the shed. This will prevent roof runoff from splashing dirt back up on the siding causing what we like to refer to as “ring around the shed”.

When digging out the area to accept the stone, start at the lowest area and establish the grade by digging down 4″. You can now excavate the rest of the site keeping in mind the site should be level when finished.

Sono Tubes

Also known as concrete piers are recommended or even required by some towns.

10″ diameter tubes are recommended. You should contact the shed builder or retailer for recommended placement.

Cement Slab

A cement slab is one of the more expensive ways to prepare your site however if done correctly it can also be the best. A slab will keep the shed level and prevent grass and weeds from growing both under and around your shed.

Concrete blocks

Most companies will place your shed on cement blocks or patio blocks in order to level it. Cement blocks have a tendency to settle into the ground over time and can cause the shed to fall out of level, which can hinder the use of the shed doors.

If you choose to utilize patio blocks it is a good idea to dig a trench 1 foot wide and 4-6 inches deep around the perimeter of the shed and fill it with some type of stone or gravel. This will prevent roof runoff from splashing dirt onto the siding and also keep grass and weeds from growing against the siding.

Ground

You may also decide to simply place you shed directly on the ground. Depending on the shed construction this should be fine. Be sure that the shed has a pressure treated floor system and base. It is also important that the shed has pressure treated timbers running underneath and perpendicular to the floor joists in order to elevate the shed and allow adequate ventilation.

Should I have a carpenter build my shed, buy a prefab kit or have a shed delivered to me fully assembled?

Your carpenter will probably do a great job building your shed however if the completed shed is not exactly what you had in mind it is tough to change it. It is much easier to visit a place where you can see several styles and sizes and select one that fits your budget and taste. You will know exactly what you are getting and the price won’t change.

Prefab kits are great for the homeowner who is looking for a project to do over a couple of weekends.

Sheds, which can be delivered, fully assembled are the most popular selection. You can see the finished product before it is in your yard and when it arrives all you have to do is put your stuff inside.

What type of construction should I look for or stay away from?

A typical shed will be framed with 2″x4″s and come standard with a floor and shingles. After that shed construction can vary dramatically.

* If the shed is framed with 2″x4″s it is recommended that you be sure that the wall studs are 16″ apart or 16″ on center.
* There should be a sill plate or a 2″x4″ running between the wall studs and the deck or floor of the shed.
* The rafters should also be 16″ apart and fortified with wooden gussets on both sides of the rafter at the peak. Some economy sheds will have metal brackets, as they are quicker and easier to install. These are not as strong as wooden gussets.
* On wooden sheds be sure that the ends overhang the siding at the roof by at least 2″. This will assist with runoff keeping it away from the siding.
* Be sure the shed has gable end vents.
* Be sure the floor decking, joists and base are pressure treated. This should be standard on most sheds.
* Be sure the inside of the door is framed adequately. The inside of the door should be framed with a minimum of 2″x3″s with cross bracing. This will help prevent the door from warping. Be sure the 2″x3″s or 2″x4″s are not lying flat so the 3inch or 4 inch side of the lumber is against the door.
* In the case of double doors be sure the door that is stationary is also framed. This door will not require the cross bracing.
* Check the height of the shed. Overhead space will give you a lot of extra storage area and should be considered when sizing your shed.
* Be sure the shed comes with at least 20-year shingles. It’s costly to re roof your shed.
* Be sure the doors have at least 3 strong hinges.
* Ideally the floor should be constructed of 2″x4″ pressure treated joists with 4″x4″ beams running perpendicular. This will disperse the weight of heavy items you store inside and also allows for ventilation.
* Be sure the shed has at least one window to help with ventilation. It is also important that the window is functional.
* Stay away from cheap door latches such as hasps. These tend to not work properly after a relatively short time.
* be sure the door hinges are not directly fastened to the siding. This creates a problem, as they will have to be fastened underneath the door trim causing it to inevitably detach from the shed.
* On vinyl sided sheds be sure the doors are not wood. This defeats the purpose of going with the vinyl siding.
* On cedar sheds be sure there is a rigid layer between the siding and the wall studs.
* Stay away from cedar sheds constructed using short pieces of boards throughout.
* Be sure there is full trim around the door. This assists in keeping water from entering the shed.
* If you have the option for architectural shingles be sure they are at least 25-year architectural shingles.

This is a popular question and the answer may vary however speaking from experience there are more than 1 “best times” to purchase a shed.

Here are some suggestions which may help you plan your shed purchase.

• Home shows and fairs – The reason is competition. There are typically several vendors fighting for your business. Although they may have differences in quality invariably they have all dropped their price. Display models may also be priced even lower than a custom order so if you can be flexible with colors and door placement this is a good time to buy a shed.
• Summer months – Late July and August are also great times to purchase a shed. believe it or not these are traditionally slow periods for most shed retailers. Families are spending money on vacations and back to school shopping. many shed retailers have summer clearance sales and are trying to move some inventory.
• Winter – Storage Shed retailers in areas where winter brings snow have a huge decline in sales from December – early March. This is probably the best possible time to purchase a display model. You can expect to save a significant amount on your shed however you may have to wait until March before the delivery is possible. Further you may be required to pay in full or at least leave a large deposit. Why? The shed has more value and the cash flow is not as important to the retailer in the spring. So if you are paying the retailers cost on a unit to help the companies cash flow it doesn’t help him if you pay in the spring.

Of course these are not the only times you can get a fantastic deal. Overstocks, manufacturers errors, dinged or slightly damaged sheds and trade-ins can be found at significantly reduced prices throughout the year.

Hope this helps with your shed purchase!

Here are just a few:

14×28 Garden A-frame – Our country Store at the fair! Red with black shutters and Navajo white trim (cupola not included)

Reg. Price w/roof installation $14,115 – Sale price at Big E $9599.00 – SOLD!

Skips Big E Country store

10×14 Garden A-Frame w/double door and 2 windows – Reg. Price w/roof installation $6390 – Sale price at Big E $3995 – DISPLAY MODEL SOLD!

Big E display model on sale!

ALL 8×12 vinyl capes (gate sheds – about 12 left) from $1850 – $1950 – The closer you are to the fair the lower the Price!

8x12 vinyl cape gate sheds!

10×16 Vinyl Cape – Reg. Price -$3845 Sale price at Big E $2995 – DISPLAY MODEL $2799 SOLD!

10x16 vinyl cape (2 left!!!!!)

Thats all for tonight. More tomorrow or stop by one of our displays and view more of our display models on sale!

Most of these people we see only once a year but it’s as if we were hanging out together all year.

It’s amazing the comradery among the vendors at the fair. Many of them travel to several fairs throughout the year and then there are the locals, those of us who attend one or two regional fairs.

There is also an image of my favorite attraction at the Big E. The Bears! Each year they attend the fair with their trailer of bears ranging from Kodiak’s to black bears and grizzlies. Protected by thick glass you can watch the bears interact with each other, claw at tractor tires and feed. The cost is only $2 and it is money well spent!

irish choppers

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Picture 1 of 9

Chris and Mickey from Irish choppers. One of our neighbors at the fair. Great guys and great choppers! Chris' mom and Mickeys wife April cooked us a killer meal yesterday during the fair!

I’m going to add some more pictures when I have some time.

As a kid I would help my father stack the rough sawn pine on the trucks. By the time I was old enough to work we were using less rough sawn siding and more plywood sheet siding products. Pine and Fir T1-11 were the most popular. These plywood sidings were more durable than the pine and decreased the amount of time it took us to build a shed. They also made it easier for us to panelize our buildings.

The problems with the sheet sidings was that they did not take paint well. The exterior layer was rough and after a few years needed a new coat of paint. They also contained boat knots or football knots. These are areas where knots were cut our of the last layer of the T1-11 and filler was added. They are shaped like footballs or boats hence the name. The filler would sometimes deteriorate and leave the plywood exposed.Overall it was still the most cost effective, durable siding for storage sheds.

About 13 years ago we were introduced to DuraTempâ„¢ siding.

DuraTemp™ has a plywood veneer inner core and a hardboard face. It takes paint extremely well and the hardboard face will not crack, split or check. The hardboard face will not easily show marks when hit with a hammer. Simply put it is a super tough, long lasting siding.

Key Benefits of DuraTempâ„¢

• Â Does not Crack, Check or Split
• Â Is made using genuine plywood
• Â The finish resembles rough sawn cedar
•  Is super easy to paint with latex gloss or semi gloss latex house paint formulated for wood( Do NOT use stain, vinyl acrylic exterior paint)
• Â Will not have to be repainted for 8-15 years (this is from my own experience )
•  It is relatively light weight No boat knots
• Â No added urea formaldehyde (NAUF)
• Â Cost effective siding solution

The first time I was introduced to DuraTempâ„¢ by a lumber broker I was very skeptical. I listened to his sales pitch and quite frankly wasn’t sold on it. Having heard many similar claims from other salesmen I needed some proof. At the end of our meeting he asked me if I had a bucket he could use. I went and got one for him and he went proceeded to fill it about half way with water. He took his DuraTempâ„¢ sample and placed it in the bucket. He told me to leave it in the bucket and give him a call in a month or so.

I would pull the siding sample out of the water every few days or so to see how much it had expanded from absorbing water but there was no noticeable change. About 2-3 months later the majority of our storage sheds had DuraTempâ„¢ hardboard siding.

At our store we have a garage we use for storing tools etc. Although I can’t remember it’s exact age it is over 10 years old. Other than the paint fading and some dings and dents to the garage doors and trim it is in incredibly good shape. I have never repainted it and don’t plan to anytime soon.

We have delivered well over five thousand sheds with DuraTempâ„¢ siding and there have been very few problems. The ones we did have were due to a bad sheet of sidings which was promptly replaced.

So if you’re buying or building a shed don’t hesitate to go with DuraTempâ„¢!

After 15 years you would think we would be able to breeze through the set up in just a few days but something always seems to come up.

This year everything was going as planned and suddenly we realized that one of our featured storage sheds wasn’t going to be ready in time for the Big E. So we had to replace it with a similar shed however it was 2 feet larger throwing the entire layout off. That combined with a couple of us getting sick meant our display wouldn’t be complete until about midnight the night before the fair.

We brought in over 50 sheds and gazebos as well as many yard and garden accents, bird houses, cupolas and weather vanes, decorative light houses and framed prints as well as tons of other items.

Now it’s time to talk to thousands of fair goers about our products. We enjoy answering questions and helping people with everything from selecting the correct cupola size for their home to assisting in the design of a custom storage shed.

Stop by and say hi if you are at New England’s Great State Fair – The Big E!

Part of 1 of our 2 Big E displays

Skips Big E Country store

The majority of the customers I speak with each day are interested in matching the color scheme of their home. Of course this is completely logical. I mean it only makes sense to match the color scheme of your house so your shed doesn’t stand out like a sore thumb. On the other hand there are a handful of customers who go completely nuts with their color scheme. Believe me when I tell you that I have seen some of the most bizarre color combination’s imaginable! Of course I’m not the one who has to look at their shed every day.

So I was playing around with some storage shed color schemes today. I need 50-70 sheds for the Big E, a 17 day long fair in Massachusetts which starts next month and some more for our stores. Here are a few of the color schemes I came up with.

This is a popular color scheme. A bit bland but the clay paint color allows the shed to blend in when abutting trees etc.

Saw a storage shed with this color scheme leave the lot today. I like the blue/gray contrast. The clay door looked out of place to me at first but after looking at the shed for a couple of minutes it grew on me. The navajo white trim gives the the color scheme a little more “pop”.

Another customer favorite! Just had a couple of sheds with these colors arrive in inventory and customers comment on how much they like the colors. Of course many who like the colors end up just going with their house colors when they place their order but overall I would say this is in the top 5 most popular color schemes this year.

Although these were/are popular colors I began thinking about going out on a limb and mixing things up a bit. Who knows maybe I’ll hit on some other colors that people will absolutely love! So I played with some colors today and here is what I came up with and why.

Ok so these colors aren’t totally crazy. Blue is popular and the white really jumps off the shed. The blue roof may be a bit much but I happened to be reading about the L.A. Dodgers when I put these colors together. I’m on the east coast but who knows maybe there are some Dodgers fans looking for a shed (or any other sports fan whose favorite team is blue and white.

Back to the blue roof again. Have baseball on my so this is my attempt at drawing in some Cubs fans or patriots fans for that matter although the blue is a little light for the Patriots.

Red Sox shed? Maybe? Cut me some slack I only have so many colors to work with.

Staying along the red white and blue them how about an Independence Day shed? Think these will be a big seller?

For those who REALLY get into decorating for Christmas. The Christmas shed makes a GREAT gift!

Back to the sports theme. If you can't guess this is my Boston Celtics shed. Being that I am in Massachusetts this color scheme is a sure thing!

What John Deere tractor owner would't want a shed that matches their tractor! When watching sportscenter Im pretty sure there was an ad that prompted me to select these colors.

I think the next batch will include some purple and pink. Oh and definitely black! Some tie dyes for the dead heads out there might be a good idea.

If you don’t feel you can tackle the site preparation you can opt to hire a local landscape contractor.

Crushed Stone Base

The crushed stone base is now the most widely accepted site preparation for sheds under 400 square feet. For over 18 years we have been recommending this type of site preparation and within the past 2 years more and more towns and municipalities have begun to catch on and recommend this type of base to those applying for shed permits.

What you’ll need(for do it yourselfers)

• Roll of string
• Tape measure
• Spade shovel
• Wheelbarrow
• Grading rake or iron rake
• Line level
• 4 stakes
• Eight foot long 2″x4″
• Four foot level
• Crushed stone (amount based on size of shed – chart below)
• Optional – Landscape fabric/weed cloth

Step 1

Add 2 feet to the length of the shed as well as the width.

Next measure the area and place a stake in each corner. Remember to add the 2 feet to the length and width.

To be sure that your layout is square measure diagonally from corner to corner and be sure these distances are equal.

Square your area

Step 2

Starting at the highest corner wrap the string around the bottom of the stake and run it to the lowest stake. Place a line level on the string and pull the string taut. Move the string up and down until the string is level. Wrap the string around the stake at this height. At the lowest point measure from the string to the ground. Add 4 inches to this distance and beginning at the high point dig down to the depth. Excavate the entire area.

Remove the grass and top soil

Step 3

Once the grass and topsoil are removed rake out the area.

Rake out the site

Step 4

Back fill the area with the crushed stone then rake it out so it is level. use the 2″x4″ to check for level. Be sure to check it from front to back as well as side to side. Check for level in several different spots as you rake out the crushed stone.

Completed stone site prep.

Step 5

This is an optional step but watering the stone can help it to compact a little better. The water will wash the finer particles through the stone allowing the crushed rock to settle.

Crushed Stone Base w/Timber frame

What you’ll Need

• Circular saw, chain saw or cutoff saw
• Timbers – I recommend 6″ x 6″ timbers however 4″ x 6″ will work as well. Make sure they are ground contact rated pressure treated. The timbers must be equal to the sum of the four sides of your site. For instance if you are creating a elevated stone pad for a 10′x16′ shed you would first add 2′ to the length and width then add the four sides together. So you would need 60 linear feet of timber (12 +12 + 18 + 18 = 60).
• Depending on how high you will be building your base you will need additional timbers to be used as “dead men”.
• #5 Rebar or similar cut to 4′ lengths. You will need 1 piece of rebar for every 4 feet of your frame.
• Drill (hammer drill recommended) and a 5/8″ drill bit which can reach a depth of 6″ minimum
• Sledge hammer
• Roll of string
• Tape measure
• Spade shovel
• Wheelbarrow
• Grading rake or iron rake
• Line level
• 4 stakes
• Eight foot long 2″x4″
• Four foot level
• Crushed stone (to calculate the amount needed use this chart)

Step 1

Follow steps 1-3 used for the “Crushed Stone base”

Step 2

Place the landscape timbers around the perimeter of the site. Be sure the timbers are level. Drill holes through the timbers every 4 feet and rebar the timbers into place using the 4′ lengths of rebar. For larger bases you may want to add “dead men” which are timbers which run perpendicular to the outer timbers to help keep the from moving however since the outer timbers are set in the ground the dead men are not entirely necessary.

Step 3

With the timbers in place you can now backfill your site with the crushed stone.

We are only going to move relevant posts and not older non topical posts.

This should be a lot of fun!