Why won’t my shed Doors close?

I receive at least 40-50 calls per year from people who have a shed 15,20,30 or more years old which is in decent shape however the doors are sagging, won’t close properly or just plain don’t work.

Here are some simple steps to try and eliminate your door issues:

• Take a 4′ level and place in the middle of the shed floor. Make sure it is level front to back and right to left. If your storage shed is even a little bit out of level it can cause the shed doors to stick/rub. Using pressure treated, steel, concrete or composite shims re-level the shed. I suggest using a Jeep jack or Johnson bar to lift the shed one corner at a time. Depending on the size of the building you may be able to use a simple steel bar to lift the corners high enough to place the shims underneath.

• Doors are warping out at the bottom/top. This may happen for several reasons and there are a couple of ways to solve the problem.

1. You can buy small turnbuckles at most hardware stores or home centers. Attach one half to the area where the door is pulling away from the shed and the other diagonally across the door towards the opposite corner. Once screwed into place start tightening the turn buckle using a wrench. Once you have it cranked nice and tight take a look and see if it took out some, most or all of the warp. If not proceed to step 2.
2. Remove the doors from the storage shed. Next remove the trim from the front of the doors (if there is any) as many carpenters will nail through the siding on the front of the door into the door framing and then hide the nails with the trim. Remove the frame from the siding and replace the framing with new, straight lumber. Reattach the siding and trim (replace the trim and siding if necessary since you already have it dis-assembled). Paint the bottom of the siding as well as the bottom of the framing to prevent wicking moisture from the ground.

• Swollen doors – From time to time your shed doors may swell due to rain or humidity. Using your doors when they are swollen is not a good idea as it can damage the siding. In the case of laminated siding such as T1-11 the siding may delaminate. To correct this problem it is a good idea to increase the space between the door and the door jam/frame. When the door(s) are swollen take a permanent marker and mark the areas where the door is swollen. Make sure that if the door is modified it will still hit the stops which keep it from opening all the way in. When the door has dried remove the door(s) and using a chalk line or straight edge make a line the entire length or width of the side where the door is rubbing. I suggest ripping the door down just a small amount. As little as the width of the circular saw blade will usually solve the problem.

Most quality shed manufacturers consider swelling when constructing their doors and door openings. Warping on the other hand can not be foreseen.

Since I am on the topic of shed doors my next entry will be how to build shed doors like the pros!

A cupola is one of the most popular storage shed accessories.
Whether it be for added ventilation or simply curb appeal selecting the proper size cupola for your shed or barn is important. The following information will help you determine what size cupola you need for your outbuilding.

This guide to sizing your cupola is for storage sheds and relatively small barns however, much of this information can be used for larger buildings. If you would like our educated opinion on a size for a larger structure please feel free to comment here or send us an email and it would be our pleasure to assist you.

The first thing you need to do is measure your unbroken roof line. In most cases this is about or exactly the same as the length of the shed.
Unbroken roof line refers to the distance the roof line spans without deviating in elevation.

Next measure the width or depth of the storage shed assuming it does not have over sized eves or overhangs.

The last measurement and typically not included in most cupola size charts is the height of the building from ground to roof peak.

To begin: 1 foot of unbroken roofline equals 1.25 inches of cupola base. So if your structures unbroken roofline is 30 feet long then the cupola base width would be approximately 37.5 inches. With that said the height of the structure must also be considered.

The height of the structure upon which the cupola will be mounted is also a factor in determining size. If your structure is relatively short such as a ranch style home then it is a good idea to change the ratio you use to determine size: “1 foot equals 1 inch” is probably a good ratio. If the cupola will be going on a two story structure where the roof line is unbroken then the 1.25 inch per foot rule of thumb is the better option. If the cupola will be on a large/tall horsebarn etc. then using the 1.25″ per foot rule and then going one (or two) sizes larger may be a good idea.

The majority of cupola buyers now have all the information they need to make their purchase however there are other factors which some of you may need to take into consideration.

*Long and Skinny – Some buildings such as Single Bay Garages, Row Barns and Monitor Barns are long and narrow and therefore the cupola may need to be downsized.Imagine a 12′ wide by 36′ long single story, single bay garage. A 36″ wide cupola would look ridiculous on the roof (at least to most people). So you may want to downsize slightly. A 30″ cupola would probably look appropriate on this building.

*Very steep – When a cupola is installed the base of the cupola is cut to match the pitch of your roof. If the roof is say a 12/12 pitch the cupola will sit lower on the roof. In these cases you should be considering cupolas which are taller. A short cupola will only look shorter once mounted. Conversely, if you have a very shallow pitch like a 5/12 a very tall cupola will still look tall when mounted.

*Multiple cupolas – Larger structures or structures with “broken roof lines” in many cases will look better with more than one cupola as opposed to one very large cupola. “L” shaped houses sometimes look as if something is missing when only the main part of the house has a cupola. A single HUGE cupola on a large Riding Arena may seem lost. These are perfect examples of structures which will look better with multiple cupolas. Determining the size of these cupolas is a matter of taste however if it is an “L” shaped house for example use the 1 foot = 1 inch rule of thumb for each section of unbroken roof line. For a very large barn or Stable you may want to go a bit larger. In the case of a super large structure you may want to consider a large cupola in the center of the roof with 1 smaller cupola on either side centered between the main cupola and each gable end of the building (a total of 3 cupolas).

*Note – This is simply a guide. Many people like the look of an oversized cupola with windows and lighting while others would prefer something basic and less imposing.

If you are on the fence and not sure exactly what you would like on your shed visit a local retailer who offers cupolas. Most large storage shed retailers have several different size sheds on display with cupolas. It is much easier to make your selection when you have seen a similar size shed to yours with a cupola on top.

Along with the grind of setting up and working the Big E there is also the excitement of seeing our Big E friends.

Most of these people we see only once a year but it’s as if we were hanging out together all year.

It’s amazing the comradery among the vendors at the fair. Many of them travel to several fairs throughout the year and then there are the locals, those of us who attend one or two regional fairs.

There is also an image of my favorite attraction at the Big E. The Bears! Each year they attend the fair with their trailer of bears ranging from Kodiak’s to black bears and grizzlies. Protected by thick glass you can watch the bears interact with each other, claw at tractor tires and feed. The cost is only $2 and it is money well spent!

irish choppers

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Chris and Mickey from Irish choppers. One of our neighbors at the fair. Great guys and great choppers! Chris' mom and Mickeys wife April cooked us a killer meal yesterday during the fair!

I’m going to add some more pictures when I have some time.

Over the years we have used many sidings in the construction of our storage sheds.

As a kid I would help my father stack the rough sawn pine on the trucks. By the time I was old enough to work we were using less rough sawn siding and more plywood sheet siding products. Pine and Fir T1-11 were the most popular. These plywood sidings were more durable than the pine and decreased the amount of time it took us to build a shed. They also made it easier for us to panelize our buildings.

The problems with the sheet sidings was that they did not take paint well. The exterior layer was rough and after a few years needed a new coat of paint. They also contained boat knots or football knots. These are areas where knots were cut our of the last layer of the T1-11 and filler was added. They are shaped like footballs or boats hence the name. The filler would sometimes deteriorate and leave the plywood exposed.Overall it was still the most cost effective, durable siding for storage sheds.

About 13 years ago we were introduced to DuraTempâ„¢ siding.

DuraTemp™ has a plywood veneer inner core and a hardboard face. It takes paint extremely well and the hardboard face will not crack, split or check. The hardboard face will not easily show marks when hit with a hammer. Simply put it is a super tough, long lasting siding.

Key Benefits of DuraTempâ„¢

• Â Does not Crack, Check or Split
• Â Is made using genuine plywood
• Â The finish resembles rough sawn cedar
•  Is super easy to paint with latex gloss or semi gloss latex house paint formulated for wood( Do NOT use stain, vinyl acrylic exterior paint)
• Â Will not have to be repainted for 8-15 years (this is from my own experience )
•  It is relatively light weight No boat knots
• Â No added urea formaldehyde (NAUF)
• Â Cost effective siding solution

The first time I was introduced to DuraTempâ„¢ by a lumber broker I was very skeptical. I listened to his sales pitch and quite frankly wasn’t sold on it. Having heard many similar claims from other salesmen I needed some proof. At the end of our meeting he asked me if I had a bucket he could use. I went and got one for him and he went proceeded to fill it about half way with water. He took his DuraTempâ„¢ sample and placed it in the bucket. He told me to leave it in the bucket and give him a call in a month or so.

I would pull the siding sample out of the water every few days or so to see how much it had expanded from absorbing water but there was no noticeable change. About 2-3 months later the majority of our storage sheds had DuraTempâ„¢ hardboard siding.

At our store we have a garage we use for storing tools etc. Although I can’t remember it’s exact age it is over 10 years old. Other than the paint fading and some dings and dents to the garage doors and trim it is in incredibly good shape. I have never repainted it and don’t plan to anytime soon.

We have delivered well over five thousand sheds with DuraTempâ„¢ siding and there have been very few problems. The ones we did have were due to a bad sheet of sidings which was promptly replaced.

So if you’re buying or building a shed don’t hesitate to go with DuraTempâ„¢!

What a week! Setting up for one of the countries larges fairs takes a lot of time and patience.

After 15 years you would think we would be able to breeze through the set up in just a few days but something always seems to come up.

This year everything was going as planned and suddenly we realized that one of our featured storage sheds wasn’t going to be ready in time for the Big E. So we had to replace it with a similar shed however it was 2 feet larger throwing the entire layout off. That combined with a couple of us getting sick meant our display wouldn’t be complete until about midnight the night before the fair.

We brought in over 50 sheds and gazebos as well as many yard and garden accents, bird houses, cupolas and weather vanes, decorative light houses and framed prints as well as tons of other items.

Now it’s time to talk to thousands of fair goers about our products. We enjoy answering questions and helping people with everything from selecting the correct cupola size for their home to assisting in the design of a custom storage shed.

Stop by and say hi if you are at New England’s Great State Fair – The Big E!

Part of 1 of our 2 Big E displays

Skips Big E Country store

A firm, level base is important to the longevity of your storage shed. In our storage shed buyers guide we discuss site preparation but I am going to go a little more in depth here.

If you don’t feel you can tackle the site preparation you can opt to hire a local landscape contractor.

Crushed Stone Base

The crushed stone base is now the most widely accepted site preparation for sheds under 400 square feet. For over 18 years we have been recommending this type of site preparation and within the past 2 years more and more towns and municipalities have begun to catch on and recommend this type of base to those applying for shed permits.

What you’ll need(for do it yourselfers)

• Roll of string
• Tape measure
• Spade shovel
• Wheelbarrow
• Grading rake or iron rake
• Line level
• 4 stakes
• Eight foot long 2″x4″
• Four foot level
• Crushed stone (amount based on size of shed – chart below)
• Optional – Landscape fabric/weed cloth

Step 1

Add 2 feet to the length of the shed as well as the width.

Next measure the area and place a stake in each corner. Remember to add the 2 feet to the length and width.

To be sure that your layout is square measure diagonally from corner to corner and be sure these distances are equal.

Square your area

Step 2

Starting at the highest corner wrap the string around the bottom of the stake and run it to the lowest stake. Place a line level on the string and pull the string taut. Move the string up and down until the string is level. Wrap the string around the stake at this height. At the lowest point measure from the string to the ground. Add 4 inches to this distance and beginning at the high point dig down to the depth. Excavate the entire area.

Remove the grass and top soil

Step 3

Once the grass and topsoil are removed rake out the area.

Rake out the site

Step 4

Back fill the area with the crushed stone then rake it out so it is level. use the 2″x4″ to check for level. Be sure to check it from front to back as well as side to side. Check for level in several different spots as you rake out the crushed stone.

Completed stone site prep.

Step 5

This is an optional step but watering the stone can help it to compact a little better. The water will wash the finer particles through the stone allowing the crushed rock to settle.

Crushed Stone Base w/Timber frame

What you’ll Need

• Circular saw, chain saw or cutoff saw
• Timbers – I recommend 6″ x 6″ timbers however 4″ x 6″ will work as well. Make sure they are ground contact rated pressure treated. The timbers must be equal to the sum of the four sides of your site. For instance if you are creating a elevated stone pad for a 10′x16′ shed you would first add 2′ to the length and width then add the four sides together. So you would need 60 linear feet of timber (12 +12 + 18 + 18 = 60).
• Depending on how high you will be building your base you will need additional timbers to be used as “dead men”.
• #5 Rebar or similar cut to 4′ lengths. You will need 1 piece of rebar for every 4 feet of your frame.
• Drill (hammer drill recommended) and a 5/8″ drill bit which can reach a depth of 6″ minimum
• Sledge hammer
• Roll of string
• Tape measure
• Spade shovel
• Wheelbarrow
• Grading rake or iron rake
• Line level
• 4 stakes
• Eight foot long 2″x4″
• Four foot level
• Crushed stone (to calculate the amount needed use this chart)

Step 1

Follow steps 1-3 used for the “Crushed Stone base”

Step 2

Place the landscape timbers around the perimeter of the site. Be sure the timbers are level. Drill holes through the timbers every 4 feet and rebar the timbers into place using the 4′ lengths of rebar. For larger bases you may want to add “dead men” which are timbers which run perpendicular to the outer timbers to help keep the from moving however since the outer timbers are set in the ground the dead men are not entirely necessary.

Step 3

With the timbers in place you can now backfill your site with the crushed stone.

We have decided to move our storage sheds blog to the newest version of wordpress. Unfortunately we will need to copy and paste older entries into the new wordpress a our attempt to move the files was unsuccessful.

We are only going to move relevant posts and not older non topical posts.

This should be a lot of fun!

A cheap, effective way to create a base for your small storage shed

We recommend a crushed stone base to most of our customers however sometimes it just isn’t worth the time and money. In cases where the shed is very small (under 80 square feet) although a good idea a stone base isn’t always necessary.

If you are thinking of building or buying a shed around this size here is a simple yet effective way to prepare your shed site.

The first and most important thing is to find a level spot in your yard. be sure it is an area that is relatively dry throughout the year.

Second, purchase patio blocks 2″x8″x16″. These can be purchased at most masonry supply stores or garden centers. Most Home Depots also carry them. The number of blocks needed will vary depending on the shed construction (more info below).

Depending on the base of the shed the next steps will vary. If your shed comes fitted with 4″x4″s running perpendicular to the floor joists which will keep it off the ground the blocks are not necessary other than for leveling your shed in which case you should only need 6-8 blocks if your shed is a couple of inches out of level and more if your grade is more than a few inches.

If your shed has 2″x6″ floor joists without any 4″x4″s keeping it off the ground then you need to use the patio blocks to elevate the entire shed. In the event your site is perfectly level then 1 -2 stacked blocks will raise it enough to allow ventilation. In this case I would suggest purchasing about 12 blocks unless the grade is more than 4-6″ out of level in which case I would buy more and return those which you don’t use.

This type of storage shed base can be done AFTER the shed is built or delivered. In most cases, if the shed is being delivered fully assembled or being erected on site by the company you purchased it from the delivery person or installation crew will place your shed on the blocks for you. If you are building it yourself then once you have completed the floor place a 4′ level on it and find the high point. Place 1 patio block on the highest corner then place blocks in the rest of the corners adding blocks as necessary to level the floor.

Once the floor is level add blocks and shims every 3′-4′ in order to support the building. You should also support the center of the shed.

Once your base is level and supported finish your shed build.

Once you have completed the shed or the delivery/installation crew is done and gone it is time for some more site work.

In order to protect your shed from splatter from rain run off as well as from weeds and grass growing against it we are going to excavate and area of about 1′ all the way around the shed. Dig down about 6″ in depth and back fill with the crushed stone of your choice. Pea stone is not recommended as it doesn’t compact well and may end up in your lawn. 1″ or under crushed stone or gravel tends to work best as it compacts well. You may also add weed cloth under the stone for added protection.

On sheds with overhangs be sure and measure a foot out from the overhang and not from the floor itself.

That’s it! Your site is complete!

There are plenty of optional features for your storage shed which you can purchase or build yourself. Here is our top 10 list of storage shed accessories.

1 Tractor Ramp – Although not every shed owner needs a ramp it still tops our list.

2 Loft – Inexpensive to construct, a loft adds additional storage space. Lofts are perfect for storing everything from pool toys to boxes of holiday decorations.

3 Cupola – A vented cupola helps to cool your shed during the hot summer months. Cupolas adorned with a weathervane add character to your storage shed.

4 Bike Hooks – They come in a variety of shapes and sizes and can be used to hang bikes as well as ladders, hose, pool implements etc. I hang a small snow thrower from a couple of hooks in my shed.

5 Shelving – Slat wall works well and give you the ability to add/remove shelves quickly and easily. There are many different types of shelves, baskets, hooks etc. which are compatible with slat wall.

6 Shed Alarm – Probably not the first thing that pops into someones head when thinking about a shed accessory. A MUST have if your storing valuable items in your shed.

7 Lights – This is a necessity to many. Ideally, you were able to run power to your shed and install some lights and outlets. If you don’t need power to your shed basic tap lights work very well for those times when there just is not enough sun light. Another option are solar shed lights. They take longer to install than a tap light but will never need batteries.

8 Heater - Through the wall propane heaters work well and are not expensive to operate. It can also ehat up a 10′x16 shed in a matter of minutes. Electric heaters are another option.

9 Window Boxes – A very popular shed accessory. I recommend vinyl or composite so you don’t have to worry about rotting.

10 Loft Door – You don’t necessarily need a loft to have a loft door. Who would need a loft door? They’re great for plumbers, electricians, carpenters etc. A loft door makes it easy to store lumber, pipes and other long objects (kayaks, canoes) from the outside.

Shed loft door

Hi, the storage shed guy here introducing you to our little slice of the net. This blog contains a bunch of storage shed information. Everything from new styles and unique designs to user added photos of their own storage sheds. We also have or should I say will have information about and from different storage shed retailers as well as a ton of DIY (do it yourself) tips and tricks.

I hope you find some info. which is useful for you.

Thanks for stopping by.

The shed guy