Moving a storage shed within your yard is much easier than you might think. You just need the proper tools to do the job.

If you purchased the shed from a local storage shed retailer I would contact them before the move. Most shed retailers offer shed moving services both within the yard and over the road. In most cases hiring a professional to do the job will save you time, money and an aching back. If you would rather move it yourself ask if you can borrow or rent the tools needed to move your shed. We loan out our tools to do it yourselfers.

If it was purchased from a box store, home improvement center or wholesale club you are most likely on your own.

What you will need to move your shed

• Depending on the size of the shed being moved you will need between 2 and 4 schedule 40 PVC pipes. I prefer 6″ diameter however 4″ or 6″ will work. The PVC pipes should be at least as long as the width of the storage shed. Example: for a 10′ wide shed I would suggest 10′ long PVC pipes.
• A Jack – We use barn Jacks however just about any Jack will do.
• Johnson bar, Digging bar or 4″x4″ – Although not mandatory if you have one of these in the garage or at work it can be used as a lever to assist in rolling the shed. We carry a Johnson bar in all of our storage shed delivery trucks.
• 2 – 2″x4″ or 2″x6″ etc. to be used as tracks on top of which the PVC pipe will be set. Again don’t buy the lumber until you have attempted the shed move. In most cases you can roll the shed across the ground without the wood.
• 4′ Level – Once moved you will need to level the shed.
• Blocks/shims – 2″x8″x16″ patio blocks work well. Shims should be varying thicknesses. We also use .40 pressure treated cutoffs as well as cedar shims and 5/4″ composite decking cutoffs for shimming.

The shed move

1. Determine the easiest and shortest route to move your shed to it’s new location. The easiest may not be the shortest.
2. Clear the path.
3. Jack up the end of the shed which is nearest to the new location. Be sure and raise it high enough so you can slide one of the PVC pipes under the shed about half way back.
4. Depending on the length of the shed you can add another 1 or 2 PVC pipes. For any shed up to about 16′ long we use 2 tubes. Over 16′ long you may want to use 3. It depends on the weight of the shed and the distance it is being moved.
5. Lower the shed and remove the jack.
6. Push the shed from the opposite end. If the ground is level the shed should move relatively easily. Of course the larger the shed the harder it will be to get it rolling. If it won’t budge try using a lever (4″x4″, Digging bar or Johnson bar) to get it started.
7. As you roll your shed you will most likely have the need to turn it as you maneuver across your yard. To do this simply raise the shed and angle the PVC pipes in the direction you want it to go. Start turning well in advance of obstacles as the shed will turn gradually. If you need to make a dramatic change in direction (70 degrees plus) raise the shed, remove the back PVC pipe (furthest pipe from the leading side of the shed) and angle the leading tube in the direction you want it to go. By removing the middle tube (non leading tube) you will be able to move the leading end of the shed by pushing it so it slides on the tube. For larger sheds a lever may be needed. Of course the more man power the easier it will move.
8. Continue until you are at the new shed site.
9. Ideally, you prepared the new storage shed site with crushed stone (for site preparation instructions click here)
10. If you prepared your site then you will find it hard to push the shed across the stone. Use some scrap lumber to act as tracks on which you will be placing the PVC pipes.
11. Once your shed is on your new site raise your shed and remove the pipes/tracks and lower it into place. Place the level on the floor of your shed checking the length and the width for level. Add blocks and shims where necessary to both level and support your shed.

Some sheds just can’t be moved easily Sheds built on a foundation require a lot of additional work including adding a foundation at the new site. You can still move the shed it will simply require more work. If you need information on a specific shed/barn move let me know. We have moved large sheds and barns onto new foundations so I can give you some tips specific to your move.

]]> http://www.storagesheds.org/2010/11/shed-moving-how-to-move-your-shed/feed/ 0 http://www.storagesheds.org/2009/07/storage-shed-site-prep-crushed-stone-base/ http://www.storagesheds.org/2009/07/storage-shed-site-prep-crushed-stone-base/#comments Thu, 30 Jul 2009 17:47:18 +0000 admin http://www.storagesheds.org/?p=74680 A firm, level base is important to the longevity of your storage shed. In our storage shed buyers guide we discuss site preparation but I am going to go a little more in depth here.

If you don’t feel you can tackle the site preparation you can opt to hire a local landscape contractor.

Crushed Stone Base

The crushed stone base is now the most widely accepted site preparation for sheds under 400 square feet. For over 18 years we have been recommending this type of site preparation and within the past 2 years more and more towns and municipalities have begun to catch on and recommend this type of base to those applying for shed permits.

What you’ll need(for do it yourselfers)

Step 1

Add 2 feet to the length of the shed as well as the width.

Next measure the area and place a stake in each corner. Remember to add the 2 feet to the length and width.

To be sure that your layout is square measure diagonally from corner to corner and be sure these distances are equal.

Square your area

Step 2

First you must determine how deep you would like your base. I recommend at least 4 inches. With that said,starting at the highest corner wrap the string around the bottom of the stake and run it to the lowest stake. Place a line level on the string and pull the string taut. Move the string up and down until the string is level. Wrap the string around the stake at this height. At the lowest point measure from the string to the ground and add 4″ to this distance. Since this is the lowest area of the site this is where you will be excavating the least digging down only 4 inches. At the highest point of the site you will be digging down until you have excavated enough to create a flat surface to receive the stone.

Remove the grass and top soil

Step 3

Once the grass and topsoil are removed rake out the area.

Rake out the site

Step 4

Back fill the area with the crushed stone then rake it out so it is level. use the 2″x4″ to check for level. Be sure to check it from front to back as well as side to side. Check for level in several different spots as you rake out the crushed stone.

Step 5

This is an optional step but watering the stone can help it to compact a little better. The water will wash the finer particles through the stone allowing the crushed rock to settle.

Crushed Stone Base w/Timber frame

What you’ll Need

Step 1

Follow steps 1-3 used for the “Crushed Stone base”

Step 2

Place the landscape timbers around the perimeter of the site. Be sure the timbers are level. Drill holes through the timbers every 4 feet and rebar the timbers into place using the 4′ lengths of rebar. For larger bases you may want to add “dead men” which are timbers which run perpendicular to the outer timbers to help keep the from moving however since the outer timbers are set in the ground the dead men are not entirely necessary.

Step 3

With the timbers in place you can now backfill your site with the crushed stone.

We recommend a crushed stone base to most of our customers however sometimes it just isn’t worth the time and money. In cases where the shed is very small (under 80 square feet) although a good idea a stone base isn’t always necessary.

If you are thinking of building or buying a shed around this size here is a simple yet effective way to prepare your shed site.

The first and most important thing is to find a level spot in your yard. be sure it is an area that is relatively dry throughout the year.

Second, purchase patio blocks 2″x8″x16″. These can be purchased at most masonry supply stores or garden lefts. Most Home Depots also carry them. The number of blocks needed will vary depending on the shed construction (more info below).

Depending on the base of the shed the next steps will vary. If your shed comes fitted with 4″x4″s running perpendicular to the floor joists which will keep it off the ground the blocks are not necessary other than for leveling your shed in which case you should only need 6-8 blocks if your shed is a couple of inches out of level and more if your grade is more than a few inches.

If your shed has 2″x6″ floor joists without any 4″x4″s keeping it off the ground then you need to use the patio blocks to elevate the entire shed. In the event your site is perfectly level then 1 -2 stacked blocks will raise it enough to allow ventilation. In this case I would suggest purchasing about 12 blocks unless the grade is more than 4-6″ out of level in which case I would buy more and return those which you don’t use.

This type of storage shed base can be done AFTER the shed is built or delivered. In most cases, if the shed is being delivered fully assembled or being erected on site by the company you purchased it from the delivery person or installation crew will place your shed on the blocks for you. If you are building it yourself then once you have completed the floor place a 4′ level on it and find the high point. Place 1 patio block on the highest corner then place blocks in the rest of the corners adding blocks as necessary to level the floor.

Once the floor is level add blocks and shims every 3′-4′ in order to support the building. You should also support the left of the shed.

Once your base is level and supported finish your shed build.

Once you have completed the shed or the delivery/installation crew is done and gone it is time for some more site work.

In order to protect your shed from splatter from rain run off as well as from weeds and grass growing against it we are going to excavate and area of about 1′ all the way around the shed. Dig down about 6″ in depth and back fill with the crushed stone of your choice. Pea stone is not recommended as it doesn’t compact well and may end up in your lawn. 1″ or under crushed stone or gravel tends to work best as it compacts well. You may also add weed cloth under the stone for added protection.

On sheds with overhangs be sure and measure a foot out from the overhang and not from the floor itself.

That’s it! Your site is complete!