We receive these calls all the time. There is no set price for relocating a storage shed. There are too many variables to be considered such as the height, width, distance, access and construction of the building.

So where should you look when considering a used shed? What do you need to know before handing over the cash?

Depending on where you live finding a used shed won’t be much of a problem it’s just finding the right shed to suit your needs. Give yourself some time. Don’t jump at the first shed you see unless it is just what you’re looking for.

Start with local shed dealers! Trade-ins are relatively common in our industry or at least for those of us who deliver the majority of our sheds fully assembled. Today alone we brought in 2 trade-in sheds. Both are in very good shape and both will sell for 25% less than a comparable new shed.

Local Paper – Check the for sale section. People often list their sheds in the farm and garden section or the household goods section.

eBay – Most of the sheds on eBay are from retailers and are pricey but it can’t hurt to look.

Craigslist – Probably your best bet. Use search terms such as sheds, barns, toolsheds, outbuildings etc. Keep the transportation cost in mind when inquiring about a building. I would suggest staying within 80 miles of your location. Watch out for scammers! If the seller asks for a deposit to “hold” the shed before you look at it RUN AWAY!  Also watch out for shed dealers in disguise. I know of one company which posts as if he is just another guy selling his shed. If a dealer is resorting to this method it’s a company you don’t want to buy from.

Estate sales – Read through the contents or for larger estate sales ask for a list of the items for sale. Often times the shed is not on the short list in an advertisement.

Once you find a shed which suits your needs compare the price with a comparable new shed. Ideally, with a new shed from the same manufacturer/dealer. There have been many times a new shed from me delivered to the customer is less than they just paid for a used shed due to the cost to relocate it.

Once you find a shed which will work and is well within your budget there are some important questions you need answered:

Was the shed delivered fully assembled? If so:

• Is the shed anchored to concrete or the ground? Sometimes it’s impossible to tell if there are footings etc.

• Where did you buy the shed? If it is from a local shed company it is always best to contact them first with regard to moving the shed.

• When does it need to be moved? If there is a narrow window to get the shed out then line someone up right away. Sometimes weather plays a big factor in whether or not a shed can be moved so try and get the move scheduled several days prior to a closing etc.

• Is there any wiring which needs to be disconnected before transport?

• Is the shed interior finished? If so how? Sheetrock and tile can crack during a move. It also adds a lot of weight. On the ground it is fine but when traveling over the road the additional weight could cause structural damage or even failure!

If the shed was NOT delivered in one piece:

• If it was constructed on site then you need to check the accessibility of the site. Remember a truck or a truck and trailer will need to get to the shed. In some cases the company moving the shed may use a “ez-shed mover” or something similar however the shed will still be coming out of the yard in one piece so be sure and check the accessibility or ask the company to come and do a site check.

• What is the height of the shed? Obviously, if it’s too tall to go over the road then there will be an additional charge to remove and reinstall the roof. On average the height from the ground to the peak can be a maximum of 11’ to be hauled over the road.

• What is the construction? Is it “road worthy”? Sheds with no floor require cross bracing and are much trickier to haul. The framing is also important.

• Take a LOT of pictures of the inside and outside of the shed as well as the yard. I always ask for pictures before give a rough estimate.  Even with pictures giving a quote over the phone is risky.

 What about the delivery?

• Is your yard ready to receive the shed? Is the area where you are placing it level? It is a good idea to prepare the site in advance of delivery. Site preparation

• Is your site accessible?

You don’t want the person moving the shed to show up and tell you they can’t get it in your yard. Believe me it happens! We get to a site which we are told is completely accessible and there is a 5’ concrete wall surrounding the yard.

In the end the more information you can provide the easier it will be for the shed dealer to give you at least a ball park figure.

To keep up with the demand and lower the price of these buildings the design and construction techniques changed. Initially, we would deliver the shed or “box” as we call it, without the roof. We would then install the gable ends, rafters and sheath and shingle the roof. Doing this on site was time consuming and labor intensive so a hinged roof was developed. By hinging the roof and gable ends we were able to bring the storage shed to the customers home and simply raise the already shingled roof sections and finished gable ends. Once up and bolted together we simply need to cap the roof. Far less time and labor on site.

The benefits of a two story storage shed are many:

• More square feet of storage with a smaller footprint – Great for homeowners with a small yard
• Less expensive than purchasing the equivalent number of square feet in a single story storage shed
• The second floor is great for a man cave or home office

There are obviously other great uses for the second floor. One recent delivery was to a plumbers business location. He had limited storage space and we designed his building with a large hay loft door. He is able to back up to the building and unload pipe from his roof rack directly to the second floor. Another customer uses the first floor as a pool house and with the addition of a dormer the second floor has enough space to be used as a man cave complete with a bar, flat screen T.V. and leather sofas.

With fewer people building new homes I see this trend to larger, more grandiose structures continuing for many years.

Of course this requires that you have an extra $2795 to spend on a shed and do not have a credit card and the storage shed dealer you are purchasing from does not have any financing options.

Even if you only need the shed for 1 year it is the better option!

How? You will own the shed and can easily sell it for 50% or more of the purchase price. The company who sold it to you would probably buy it back if you can’t sell it to a neighbor or via an online message board such as craigslist. I am picking up a 4 year old shed Monday for which I paid more than 50% of their original purchase price. Think of how

Using the above example your out of pocket for the year you used the shed would be about $116.00 per month as opposed to $179.00 per month for the off site storage unit. It would be easily accessible. No driving to the storage place to get something you need.
What about 2 years?

Using the same specifications above renting an off site storage unit for 2 years is far more expensive than owning a shed.

Storage Unit $2148 per year x 2 = $4296.00

One time purchase of larger shed = $2795.00

The cost of the shed doesn’t change. If you want to factor in painting or maintenance in say year 7 (probably won’t be needed until year 10+) then add another $500 to the cost but but at 7 years, assuming there is no price increase, the storage unit rental has cost you more than $15,000.00 or the cost of more than 6 larger storage sheds.

Take into consideration that most storage shed retailers offer some type of financing. You may even opt to use a credit card or your own bank or credit union. The bottom line is if you own a home and rent an off site storage unit for more than a year you are throwing thousands of dollars out the window.

Note: I decided to post this after speaking to a customer who has been renting a 10×20 storage unit for years. It took about a minute for me to show her that buying a shed would save her a lot of money.

Here are the most popular shed styles organized for the most part by roof style

Gable Shed – Also known as: A-Frame – Even Pitch – Cape – Cottage

It stands to reason that one of the most popular shed styles is the “gable Shed” due to it’s traditional, even pitch roof.This roof style mimics the roof style of many homes.

Highwall Barn – Dutch Barn, Gambrel, Colonial

The “barn” style has a traditional country look. Adding a loft or half loft to a barn provides you additional storage area giving you more bang for your buck. Staying with the traditional barn look many customers select red for their base color and opt for cross buck door trim (X’s on the doors).

Carriage House – Quaker, pool house, pool side

This popular New England style has an overhang on the front of the building for added protection. Traditionally, a carriage house had a lower rear wall. Today, due to the need for additional storage space the rear wall is only nominally shorter than the front wall if not the same height.

Kicked Eve – Nantucket

A “kicked eve” roof style is less common when it comes to sheds. Like the carriage house style the kicked eve roof has an overhang. The term “kicked” refers to the lower portion where the roof line “kicks” out creating a different pitch for the lower portion of the roof.

Dormer – Dormered Gable, Victorian Dormer

Dormers are added to the roof in order to accommodate a vertical window (in most cases). There are a several types of dormers which can be added to a shed. Two of the most popular are Victorian dormers and dog house dormers.

The Victorian dormer in terms of sheds, extends up the front wall to a peak which is the same height as the peak of the shed. It then goes front to back meeting the sheds roof peak. This creates two valleys, one on either side of the dormer.

This style shed roof is more common in recent years due to this style dormer being used in many new homes. In some cases a porch is added giving the shed more of a Victorian look.

How much space do I need?

A tough question to answer because you never know how much more “stuff” you may accumulate but there is a relatively simple way to determine what size shed will fit the “stuff” you currently have.

First decide what items you are going to store in your new shed. Of these items, which will take up floor space in your new shed and which, will be leaning against or hung from the wall. Bring, drive or roll the items, which are going to be stored on the floor of the shed into your yard or onto your driveway.

Next position these items as you imagine them being positioned in your shed.

Use some string and outline the area and measure the length and the width.

Remember you will have additional space in your shed for hanging or placing items against the walls. In all cases other than sheds with low walls you will have the ability to store items overhead.

Once you have the measurements add 2 feet to either the length or width or 1 foot to each and you have a good indication of the size shed you need.

What is the best shed siding material?

Years ago sheds were available with just a few different siding types some of which were. Tin/aluminum, pine, cedar and wafer board/particle board. The shed industry has evolved over the years, as have the sidings available. Today you can find sheds with sidings ranging from rough sawn pine, cedar shake and clapboard to vinyl and Duratemp™ siding.

It’s hard to say which is the best siding however here are the pros and cons of each:

Rough sawn pine

Rough sawn pine commonly used for “board and baton” construction – Rough sawn pine is one of the oldest siding utilized by shed manufacturers in the northeast. It is abundant and relatively inexpensive. It is rustic in appearance and doesn’t damage easily. Unfortunately, unless kiln dried, pine will experience considerable shrinkage. In the case of board and baton construction it is not uncommon for the baton strips to warp or fall off leaving larger than acceptable gaps in the siding.

Rough sawn pine requires more maintenance than most siding types and typically needs to be repainted or stained every few years. Even with the drawbacks to rough sawn pine siding the lower price tag and rustic appearance make it a popular choice.

When buying a rough sawn pine shed be sure to ask if the pine is kiln dried. Also ask if they will replace fallen baton strips and if so for how long.

Vinyl siding

Vinyl siding – Vinyl sided sheds are a great choice for the homeowner who is not fond of maintenance. It is also a good choice for those who would like to match their vinyl sided homes. Although vinyl siding is for the most part impervious to weathering and requires little maintenance it is not the right siding choice for everyone.

Unlike wooden sheds a simple mar in the siding cannot be touched up with paint. The metal wrapping is also susceptible to dents and dings.

In the event you crack a corner with your line trimmer or dent the metal with an errant baseball throw the repairs can be more costly than that of a wooden shed.

Will you incur more cost in minor repairs over the lifetime of the shed or would you spend more painting a wooden shed? Unless you host daily baseball games you would probably spend more on paint.

Cedar siding

Cedar siding – Cedar has been a popular siding for years. Although most sheds are sided with red cedar some manufacturers utilize the less expensive “white cedar”.

Red Cedar is naturally rot and insect resistant. It is aesthetically pleasing and is easy to work with. Many homeowners opt for cedar to compliment their home or yard.

Red Cedar is one of the more expensive sidings. Red Cedar must be primed well before painting and in some the knots will still bleed through the paint. This makes it harder to maintain than some of the other sidings available. When choosing a Red Cedar shed be sure that it is not constructed with “cut-offs” or “shorts”. These are smallish pieces of wood which will look almost “puzzle pieced” together. Although these pieces are inexpensive and cause the shed price to be vastly lowered they also cause the shed to be substantially weaker than a shed utilizing standard lengths of wood. Sheds sided with cedar need to be fortified either by adding additional wall studs and metal straps or using a rigid piece of material between the wall studs and the siding.

Duratemp™ siding

Duratemp™ siding is a plywood siding with 1/8″ tempered hardboard face. Duratemp™ looks natural, resists dents, checks and cracks and is 100% clear (no wood or synthetic patches). It also holds paint exceptionally well. Duratemp™ tends to be less costly than Red Cedar and vinyl. In terms of maintenance and longevity Duratemp™ would be the next best thing to vinyl.

Duratemp™ sheds almost always come with the siding running vertically. This may be a drawback for some homeowners.

Inner seal siding

Innerseal – Innerseal is a popular siding for economy or low cost sheds. Its exterior appearance is very similar to Duratemp™ siding however you’ll know the difference when you step inside and see that it resembles wafer board.

Innerseal was involved in a class action lawsuit brought about due to rapid deterioration among other things.

Tin or aluminum siding

Tin sheds were a staple for several years. Today many tins sheds can be seen with a tarp over the roof to keep the water out or a piece of plywood acting as a make shift door. The lowest end of the spectrum in terms of cost, tin sheds are a good choice for the homeowner or renter on a limited budget.

Unfortunately tin rusts and aluminum for the most part is no longer used.

When purchasing a tin shed be sure it is rust resistant and carries a warranty against rust.

How long can I expect my shed to last?

With the exception of tin sheds your shed should last 20+ years assuming you maintain it properly by applying paint when needed, don’t store firewood against it and keep grass and weeds from growing up against the siding.

Where should I place my shed?

Your sheds’ site can be important to the sheds longevity. Here are a few tips.

It is important to choose a site that is relatively level and is free from low hanging branches. The ground should be firm and free of leaves and other debris, which may deteriorate and become unstable. If your yard becomes very wet during the spring thaw be sure that your shed is not in an area where there may be standing water for several days. If you have an in ground sprinkler system be sure to divert sprinkler heads away from the shed. When selecting the location of your shed be sure it is convenient to access. Although you may not want it next to your house you may want it on the same side of the yard as the garage or near the pool etc.

How should I prepare my site?

A common misconception is that a shed should be elevated on cinder blocks to help prevent rot and insect damage. This may have been the case 30 years ago however since the introduction of pressure treated lumber and today’s more durable sidings this is no longer necessary.

Crushed Stone

A crushed stone base, 4-6″ deep, is one of the best ways to prepare your site. Be sure and use “crushed” stone as opposed to “pea” stone. 1/2″ is a good diameter and is relatively inexpensive.

When preparing the site with crushed stone be sure and extend the size of your base 2′ longer and wider than the actual size of the shed. This will prevent roof runoff from splashing dirt back up on the siding causing what we like to refer to as “ring around the shed”.

When digging out the area to accept the stone, start at the lowest area and establish the grade by digging down 4″. You can now excavate the rest of the site keeping in mind the site should be level when finished.

Sono Tubes

Also known as concrete piers are recommended or even required by some towns.

10″ diameter tubes are recommended. You should contact the shed builder or retailer for recommended placement.

Cement Slab

A cement slab is one of the more expensive ways to prepare your site however if done correctly it can also be the best. A slab will keep the shed level and prevent grass and weeds from growing both under and around your shed.

Concrete blocks

Most companies will place your shed on cement blocks or patio blocks in order to level it. Cement blocks have a tendency to settle into the ground over time and can cause the shed to fall out of level, which can hinder the use of the shed doors.

If you choose to utilize patio blocks it is a good idea to dig a trench 1 foot wide and 4-6 inches deep around the perimeter of the shed and fill it with some type of stone or gravel. This will prevent roof runoff from splashing dirt onto the siding and also keep grass and weeds from growing against the siding.

Ground

You may also decide to simply place you shed directly on the ground. Depending on the shed construction this should be fine. Be sure that the shed has a pressure treated floor system and base. It is also important that the shed has pressure treated timbers running underneath and perpendicular to the floor joists in order to elevate the shed and allow adequate ventilation.

Should I have a carpenter build my shed, buy a prefab kit or have a shed delivered to me fully assembled?

Your carpenter will probably do a great job building your shed however if the completed shed is not exactly what you had in mind it is tough to change it. It is much easier to visit a place where you can see several styles and sizes and select one that fits your budget and taste. You will know exactly what you are getting and the price won’t change.

Prefab kits are great for the homeowner who is looking for a project to do over a couple of weekends.

Sheds, which can be delivered, fully assembled are the most popular selection. You can see the finished product before it is in your yard and when it arrives all you have to do is put your stuff inside.

What type of construction should I look for or stay away from?

A typical shed will be framed with 2″x4″s and come standard with a floor and shingles. After that shed construction can vary dramatically.

* If the shed is framed with 2″x4″s it is recommended that you be sure that the wall studs are 16″ apart or 16″ on center.

* There should be a sill plate or a 2″x4″ running between the wall studs and the deck or floor of the shed.

* The rafters should also be 16″ apart and fortified with wooden gussets on both sides of the rafter at the peak. Some economy sheds will have metal brackets, as they are quicker and easier to install. These are not as strong as wooden gussets.

* On wooden sheds be sure that the ends overhang the siding at the roof by at least 2″. This will assist with runoff keeping it away from the siding.

* Be sure the shed has gable end vents.

* Be sure the floor decking, joists and base are pressure treated. This should be standard on most sheds.

* Be sure the inside of the door is framed adequately. The inside of the door should be framed with a minimum of 2″x3″s with cross bracing. This will help prevent the door from warping. Be sure the 2″x3″s or 2″x4″s are not lying flat so the 3inch or 4 inch side of the lumber is against the door.

* In the case of double doors be sure the door that is stationary is also framed. This door will not require the cross bracing.

* Check the height of the shed. Overhead space will give you a lot of extra storage area and should be considered when sizing your shed.

* Be sure the shed comes with at least 20-year shingles. It’s costly to re roof your shed.

* Be sure the doors have at least 3 strong hinges.

* Ideally the floor should be constructed of 2″x4″ pressure treated joists with 4″x4″ beams running perpendicular. This will disperse the weight of heavy items you store inside and also allows for ventilation.

* Be sure the shed has at least one window to help with ventilation. It is also important that the window is functional.

* Stay away from cheap door latches such as hasps. These tend to not work properly after a relatively short time.

* be sure the door hinges are not directly fastened to the siding. This creates a problem, as they will have to be fastened underneath the door trim causing it to inevitably detach from the shed.

* On vinyl sided sheds be sure the doors are not wood. This defeats the purpose of going with the vinyl siding.

* On cedar sheds be sure there is a rigid layer between the siding and the wall studs.

* Stay away from cedar sheds constructed using short pieces of boards throughout.

* Be sure there is full trim around the door. This assists in keeping water from entering the shed.

* If you have the option for architectural shingles be sure they are at least 25-year architectural shingles.

This is a popular question and the answer may vary however speaking from experience there are more than 1 “best times” to purchase a shed.

Here are some suggestions which may help you plan your shed purchase.

• Home shows and fairs – The reason is competition. There are typically several vendors fighting for your business. Although they may have differences in quality invariably they have all dropped their price. Display models may also be priced even lower than a custom order so if you can be flexible with colors and door placement this is a good time to buy a shed.
• Summer months – Late July and August are also great times to purchase a shed. believe it or not these are traditionally slow periods for most shed retailers. Families are spending money on vacations and back to school shopping. many shed retailers have summer clearance sales and are trying to move some inventory.
• Winter – Storage Shed retailers in areas where winter brings snow have a huge decline in sales from December – early March. This is probably the best possible time to purchase a display model. You can expect to save a significant amount on your shed however you may have to wait until March before the delivery is possible. Further you may be required to pay in full or at least leave a large deposit. Why? The shed has more value and the cash flow is not as important to the retailer in the spring. So if you are paying the retailers cost on a unit to help the companies cash flow it doesn’t help him if you pay in the spring.

Of course these are not the only times you can get a fantastic deal. Overstocks, manufacturers errors, dinged or slightly damaged sheds and trade-ins can be found at significantly reduced prices throughout the year.

Hope this helps with your shed purchase!

Here are just a few:

14×28 Garden A-frame – Our country Store at the fair! Red with black shutters and Navajo white trim (cupola not included)

Reg. Price w/roof installation $14,115 – Sale price at Big E $9599.00 – SOLD!

Skips Big E Country store

10×14 Garden A-Frame w/double door and 2 windows – Reg. Price w/roof installation $6390 – Sale price at Big E $3995 – DISPLAY MODEL SOLD!

Big E display model on sale!

ALL 8×12 vinyl capes (gate sheds – about 12 left) from $1850 – $1950 – The closer you are to the fair the lower the Price!

8x12 vinyl cape gate sheds!

10×16 Vinyl Cape – Reg. Price -$3845 Sale price at Big E $2995 – DISPLAY MODEL $2799 SOLD!

10x16 vinyl cape (2 left!!!!!)

Thats all for tonight. More tomorrow or stop by one of our displays and view more of our display models on sale!